Culinary Masters... Les Amis d'Escoffier Society

First Escoffier Dinner I attended    
at Union Station in Worcester, 2009 

Myself, Brother Christos & Mother Valerie James

Lucky for me I am surrounded by chefs and foodies in my family, so not only do I get to enjoy amazing holiday meals and be the guinea pig for delicious new recipes, but I get to accompany them to their fabulous culinary escapades. One of these in particular has become an annual event in our family for the past fours years, where we not only get to feast on a superb five-course meal, but it is all in celebration of the cuisine and talent behind preparing it. It began with my mother who was inducted into the renowned Les Amis d'Escoffier Society five years ago, think Skull and Bones of the culinary world (not exactly but exclusive and full of rich food tradition and history). Since then we have been her faithful followers to these decadent dinners that get hosted by a different New England member restaurateur each year. Last year my brother was also inducted into the New England Chapter of Les Amis d'Escoffier, and we were so pleased to ring in the new honoree at The Castle Restaurant in Leicester, where he also apprenticed in the kitchen under owner and Chef de Cuisine Stanley Nicas.

My brother Christos James Inducted 2011  
at The Castle Restaurant with Stanley Nicas

I was so grateful to recently sit with Dr. Stanley J. Nicas who is the National Chapter Chairman of Les Amis d'Escoffier and his son James S. Nicas, the New England Chapter President, to discuss the rich history behind the society, and learn even more about their family-run, fine dining establishment from 1950, The Castle Restaurant.

First I must state for the record that the art of conversation is alive and well when sitting with Dr. Nicas. It was fascinating hearing an insider's view on working with some of the culinary greats of the past century, let alone his own fantastic adventures from serving in the U.S. Navy during World War II surviving a kamikaze attack to his aircraft carrier the USS Bunker Hill, to arriving in New Port, RI learning under the renowned Chef Joseph Donon at the Breakers, to eventually building his own fine dining restaurant and teaching every summer at the prestigious Culinary Institute of America at Hyde Park.

Awards & photos at The Castle. Escoffier
in the center oval frame.

Stanley not only colorfully explained how Les Amis d'Escoffier Society originated, but well beyond the dullness of Wikipedia, Stanley enlightened me to the ways of chefs and their incestuous world of mentorship. Stanley relayed wonderful details that only he could know since his mentor was Donon himself, and Donon's mentor was the legendary Auguste Escoffier.

Julia Child inducted into Les Amis d'Escoffier
Society at The Castle Restaurant by Stanley Nicas

Since 1936, a year after Escoffier's death, Donon founded the epicurean society with 23 other members hosting a dinner at The Waldorf-Astoria to honor his mentor and preserve culinary traditions from the master, who was considered the "best chef in the world." More than seventy years later there are now several Chapters across the U.S. and international chapters. From the early 50s Stanley has served as the national and international president. Stanley inducted the late Julia Child into the group in the early 70s, and five months prior to Donon's death in 1981, Stanley honored his mentor at an Escoffier dinner at the Castle.

Ceremony inducting new honorees 

At the beginning of every dinner a formal ceremony takes place inducting the year's honorees. The master of ceremonies hits a frying pan with a spoon before presenting a gold medallion to each honoree. The kitchen utensils used in the ceremony signify the tools a chef uses in the kitchen. A traditional saying in French is uttered, which is basically inviting the named person as the rank of commander into the society, as each person shares equal rank in the society.

At each dinner what I usually take away from it other than a few extra pounds and gluttonous ecstasy, is the gathering of food professionals and enthusiasts alike, to enjoy the art of fine dining and each other's company. On the back of every menu states the dinner rules including that men must have the napkin tucked under the collar and,                                                  "Since the Society is dedicated to the art of good living only, it is forbidden under threat of expulsion, to speak of personal affairs, of one's own work or specialty and more particularly to attempt to use the Society as a means of making business contacts."  

Escoffier Society Dinner 2012
Sonoma Restaurant

                                                                    The dinner is intended to perpetuate the art of gourmet cuisine. To enthuse a passion for the craftsmanship of cooking. And beyond all the esteem of creating masterpieces, is to highlight what every meal is really intended to do, whether it is roast chicken or chateaubriand, to bring people together. What is most inspiring about Stanley Nicas is not only his passion for cooking which is seen in all of his years of expertise including these years while he remains dedicated to his legacy at the Castle, but also his commitment to keeping the traditions alive by passing them onto younger generations. Whether it is through his deep involvement and work with the Distinguished Visiting Chef Program at Johnson and Wales demonstrating cooking techniques in front of students with the likes of Emeril Lagasse to Barbara Lynch or having hundreds of apprentices walk through the doors of the Castle to harness their craft. Here's to keeping good cuisine going strong...        Bon Appetit!

Brother Christos James & Husband Charles Moschos

Below is the menu from the most recent Escoffier Society Dinner at Sonoma Restaurant

 in Princeton, MA. A second part to the blog will follow on wine pairings and a discussion with Wine Expert and Sommelier James Nicas.

Ahi Tuna Poke (unfortunately I couldn't control
myself before taking the photo)

"Steak and Eggs" Kobe Beef with Quail Egg

Intermezzo of melon & balsamic 

Cherry Laquered Bone in Pork Belly

Triple Creme Brie

Stuffed Crab Apple with Caramel Rollo Ice Cream

Remnants from Hurricane Sandy

8th Ave. & 14th Street Apartment/Doll House

Yes, Sandy caused havoc on the East Coast with serious physical repercussions causing destitution -- but it also had mental side-effects. Out of all the places in the world where one would notice how consumed we are by media, gadgets, Internet, noise, lights, everything that distracts us and takes up our time, there is no better place to feel that loss than when it is all no longer available in the city that doesn’t sleep. Sandy stopped by briefly, yet rocked our world, not just with destruction and an increasing death toll, but knocking us off our figurative feet. When the lights go off in New York City, you don’t just light a candle and read a book, you go through withdrawal.  So many interactions and buzzing all around, all the time, that it creates a constant channel of noise. So when the lights turn off and the streets become empty, how do you turn down the noise that still exists in our heads?

Starbucks Midtown. People using Internet
& Charging Phones/Laptops

 For my husband and I in our studio apartment in the West Village where we had no power for five days, it started with a game of Scrabble. Considering we couldn't google for correct word spelling or definitions to make sure it was an actual word, (note to self: buy a dictionary) the game didn't last too long. We used up what was left of the iPad battery playing album after album of Miles Davis that night and crashed early. The next day he trekked to work enduring a 2-hour commute rather than his normal 20 minute ride, since there was no Subway and no buses going uptown. Meanwhile, I walked twenty blocks to the first open Starbucks in Midtown to bunker down and get some work done. Strangers took turns sharing outlets to charge their cell phones and laptops. 

By the second night with no power, we started to enjoy the romanticism of our little apartment completely aglow from candlelight. We each read and then had good conversation that didn't get interrupted by calls, or distracted by one of us being online or the other watching television. It was only him and I speaking and listening to one another -- what a difference it made. I decided when the day comes for a second home I want it to be a mountain cabin with no power! It forces you to look within: reading, writing, contemplating, resting, being at peace. 

Until than, still here in Manhattan, the city felt like we were out in the woods. Our neighborhood was still pitch black by nightfall with no lights other than a few people walking the streets with flashlights. By 8 O'clock in the evening it felt like it was 11. We were so used to looking out our windows to see lit stores, music blasting from the bar downstairs, cars whizzing by and flocks of people walking the streets -- but there was none of that now. We had noticed earlier that afternoon there was one local restaurant with a generator, so we decided to venture out for dinner that night.

Barraca is fairly new to the West Village so we were happy to try the Spanish Tapas restaurant regardless that it was the only place open. Although they had a generator, the lights were very low and fading in and out. So it was lit with candles everywhere, and we felt like we were in a speakeasy. Even though it felt like most people in our neighborhood left when the power went out, this restaurant was still crowded. We ordered two drinks at the bar while we waited for a table. 

The HIGOS & VODKA and TOMILLO & WHISKEYcocktails were just what we needed -- absolutely delicious!!! The vodka cocktail is made with: fig infused vodka, manzanilla sherry, spiced fig syrup with a smoked paprika rim. The Whiskey cocktail had Four Roses bourbon, thyme honey syrup, and Pedro Ximenez sherry.

Thankfully we didn't have to wait long for our table. Although they had a limited storm menu, there were plenty of mouthwatering items to choose from (and most from their actual menu). Rather than do entrees, we ended up ordering several tapas. We started with the Ham Croquetas (Jarrete De Ternera) and Mixed salad with roasted pears, valdeon cheese, caramelized walnuts and quince paste. I know croquetas are croquetas, but these were REALLY REALLY good! The Spanish ham was perfect with the creamy cheese, and they weren't deeply breaded or fried.  

We then moved onto the Veal Shank with onion compote, creme of cabrales cheese and dried apricots. The veal was a nice hearty and earthy choice for the season. It was served with warm bread that was perfect for layering the shredded veal on top. I would definitely order the veal shank again. Lastly we had Mollete de Cordero, mollete bread sandwich with pulled lamb, manchego cheese and piquillo ali-oli, and Patatas Bravioli, which are crispy potatoes with brava sauce and ali-oli. I'm not big into potatoes in general, but these were overall pretty good. I would have liked them to be more crispy but the ali-oli was delicious. The lamb sliders were clever with the cheese stuffed into the bread. I suppose I would say the menu in general was clever, and definitely creative. Barraca wasn't your average Spanish restaurant, it offered a nice spin to tapas. It also felt good to be wonderfully satisfied after tapas, usually you have to over-order and get too full, or you don't order enough and are still hungry. We were served the right amount of food, and the prices were very reasonable. 

We finished the night with two glasses of Sangria. I chose one of the sweeter options, SANGRIA CANARIAS, Viura white wine, Don Q Coco rum, lemongrass, cucumber juice, pineapple juice and Charles had the SANGRIA COMPOSTELA, Albarino white wine, sake, apple-rosemary purée, lemongrass.                                                                 

What I particularly liked about Barraca was the laid-back ambiance. There was no pretense, servers weren't snobby or stand-offish, and unlike other West Village hosts who don't realize their job description means hospitable, here they were friendly and attentive. Although we were braving the storm outside, with the delicious meal, cocktails and wonderful service from Barraca, we felt absolutely warm and cocooned from it all in our local Spanish Cave. 

Charging Station at Bonsignour Cafe

The next evening we saw that our local cafe, Bonsignour on the corner of Jane and 8th Ave. was having a community barbecue. It looked like they took on the cost to buy a generator, and created their own charging station outside for all of us neighbors to congregate to. Most generously, Bonsignour grilled burgers and provided veggies and chips for everyone. We sat and listened to transistor radios playing the evening news. I had met neighbors I had never seen before and everyone was in jovial spirits even though we still didn't have hot water or electricity. What a sense of community! 

Block Party to beat Hurricane Sandy! Thanks to Bonsignour

Maybe that has been one of the biggest shifts from Hurricane Sandy -- people took the time to stop and look, even say hello. You can walk down a busy avenue with tens of thousands of people and never share a word, everyone on a mission rushing to their destination. Bump into someone on the bus and no “excuse me” is offered. Ride a full subway car yet it's nearly silent because people have their headphones on, eyes down staring at their smartphones in a zombie like state. No one even notices the other person.  At least for a few days Downtown, albeit brief considering the lights are back on, we got a chance to get off auto-pilot and connect with people. It seems that food has that power, only needing a few people to share it with to fully enjoy together.