Flowers, Food and Wine: Culinary Masters... Les Amis d'Escoffier Society

First Escoffier Dinner I attended
at Union Station in Worcester, 2009

Myself, Brother Christos & Mother Valerie James

Lucky for me I am surrounded by chefs and foodies in my family, so not only do I get to enjoy amazing holiday meals and be the guinea pig for delicious new recipes, but I get to accompany them to their fabulous culinary escapades. One of these in particular has become an annual event in our family for the past fours years, where we not only get to feast on a superb five-course meal, but it is all in celebration of the cuisine and talent behind preparing it. It began with my mother who was inducted into the renowned Les Amis d'Escoffier Society five years ago, think Skull and Bones of the culinary world (not exactly but exclusive and full of rich food tradition and history). Since then we have been her faithful followers to these decadent dinners that get hosted by a different New England member restaurateur each year. Last year my brother was also inducted into the New England Chapter of Les Amis d'Escoffier, and we were so pleased to ring in the new honoree at The Castle Restaurant in Leicester, where he also apprenticed in the kitchen under owner and Chef de Cuisine Stanley Nicas.

My brother Christos James Inducted 2011
at The Castle Restaurant with Stanley Nicas

I was so grateful to recently sit with Dr. Stanley J. Nicas who is the National Chapter Chairman of Les Amis d'Escoffier and his son James S. Nicas, the New England Chapter President, to discuss the rich history behind the society, and learn even more about their family-run, fine dining establishment from 1950, The Castle Restaurant.

First I must state for the record that the art of conversation is alive and well when sitting with Dr. Nicas. It was fascinating hearing an insider's view on working with some of the culinary greats of the past century, let alone his own fantastic adventures from serving in the U.S. Navy during World War II surviving a kamikaze attack to his aircraft carrier the USS Bunker Hill, to arriving in New Port, RI learning under the renowned Chef Joseph Donon at the Breakers, to eventually building his own fine dining restaurant and teaching every summer at the prestigious Culinary Institute of America at Hyde Park.

Awards & photos at The Castle. Escoffier
in the center oval frame.

Stanley not only colorfully explained how Les Amis d'Escoffier Society originated, but well beyond the dullness of Wikipedia, Stanley enlightened me to the ways of chefs and their incestuous world of mentorship. Stanley relayed wonderful details that only he could know since his mentor was Donon himself, and Donon's mentor was the legendary Auguste Escoffier.

Julia Child inducted into Les Amis d'Escoffier
Society at The Castle Restaurant by Stanley Nicas

Since 1936, a year after Escoffier's death, Donon founded the epicurean society with 23 other members hosting a dinner at The Waldorf-Astoria to honor his mentor and preserve culinary traditions from the master, who was considered the "best chef in the world." More than seventy years later there are now several Chapters across the U.S. and international chapters. From the early 50s Stanley has served as the national and international president. Stanley inducted the late Julia Child into the group in the early 70s, and five months prior to Donon's death in 1981, Stanley honored his mentor at an Escoffier dinner at the Castle.

Ceremony inducting new honorees

At the beginning of every dinner a formal ceremony takes place inducting the year's honorees. The master of ceremonies hits a frying pan with a spoon before presenting a gold medallion to each honoree. The kitchen utensils used in the ceremony signify the tools a chef uses in the kitchen. A traditional saying in French is uttered, which is basically inviting the named person as the rank of commander into the society, as each person shares equal rank in the society.

At each dinner what I usually take away from it other than a few extra pounds and gluttonous ecstasy, is the gathering of food professionals and enthusiasts alike, to enjoy the art of fine dining and each other's company. On the back of every menu states the dinner rules including that men must have the napkin tucked under the collar and, "Since the Society is dedicated to the art of good living only, it is forbidden under threat of expulsion, to speak of personal affairs, of one's own work or specialty and more particularly to attempt to use the Society as a means of making business contacts."

Escoffier Society Dinner 2012
Sonoma Restaurant

The dinner is intended to perpetuate the art of gourmet cuisine. To enthuse a passion for the craftsmanship of cooking. And beyond all the esteem of creating masterpieces, is to highlight what every meal is really intended to do, whether it is roast chicken or chateaubriand, to bring people together. What is most inspiring about Stanley Nicas is not only his passion for cooking which is seen in all of his years of expertise including these years while he remains dedicated to his legacy at the Castle, but also his commitment to keeping the traditions alive by passing them onto younger generations. Whether it is through his deep involvement and work with the Distinguished Visiting Chef Program at Johnson and Wales demonstrating cooking techniques in front of students with the likes of Emeril Lagasse to Barbara Lynch or having hundreds of apprentices walk through the doors of the Castle to harness their craft. Here's to keeping good cuisine going strong... Bon Appetit!